Navigating the choices in cabinetry is actually pretty easy once you understand the basics.  Beyond that, it’s all about color and preference.  Below is a listing of common cabinetry characteristics and what to look for to get the kitchen of your dreams:

The Box
The box is where it is at.  More than any other feature, the box construction determines not only the durability of the cabinet, but also the price point.  The most obvious detail is the wood product used to make the side, rear and bottom of the cabinet.  On the lower side of the spectrum you’ll find cabinetry with sidewall construction from particle board.  In mid-range to higher quality cabinetry, you’ll find durable and stable plywood in widths from ½” to ¾” thickness.  In some cabinets you might even find pure hardwood sidewalls, although in most cases this is less a construction benefit and more of a way to justify a higher price point.  Ideally you want a cabinet with ¾” plywood construction for sidewalls and the rear top rail from which it attaches to the wall.  In some cases, particle board may be acceptable in cabinets without shelving or drawers, but for the most part, the higher the quality the more plywood construction.

In the box construction, it is also important to consider the side panels.  While not all side panels may not show, those that do should mirror the quality that the front of the cabinets do.  For this, look for cabinets with real wood side panels or wood veneer.  Plastic veneer, or printed paper, will quickly undermine any beauty you hope to create with a new kitchen.  In higher quality cabinetry you’ll even have options for flush ends, integral door panels or applied moldings.  Often this can be a way to quickly create the illusion of custom built cabinets.

Another detail of box construction is the door reveal.  Depending on your brand of cabinetry you may find that the reveal of the stiles (the vertical wood frame of the cabinetry) and the rails (the horizontal wood frame of the cabinetry) can vary from ½” to ¾” inches.  And while this may not matter when you consider one lone cabinet, when you put cabinets in a line, these numbers double and soon you see gaps between each of the doors.  The higher level the cabinet line, the closer the doors and the more custom they may appear.

The Wood
From low to high, wood can vary from pine to solid hardwoods like cherry and even exotic woods.  And while to a large degree this is a choice more subject to design than durability, the one exception is with certain woods like cherry.  Darkening over time, not only is it important to consider the current color, but also review older samples to determine the future color of your selection.

The Door
Open any cabinetry brochure and you’ll immediately meet with pages and pages of door designs.  This as well is largely a design issue, but there are some distinct characteristics that you’ll find in higher level cabinetry.  First, look for all wood doors.  Anything less and the door will warp or fall from its hinges.  After that you’ll need to consider standard doors (doors that overlay the cabinet frame) or inset doors (ones that are flush with the cabinet frame).  Lastly, consider a raised panel or applied wood molding.  The higher the quality cabinetry, typically the more intricate the door profile.  To enhance both the depth and give your cabinets an aged look, consider glazing or even rustic treatments.

The Drawer
This is the feature of any cabinetry sales pitch – and for good reason.  Dovetail drawer construction should be the minimum in any choice cabinetry.  This will not only ensure long term use of the drawers but will also bear the brunt of heavy silverware.

Consider doors with five-piece-headers instead of slab fronts.  For this, you’ll find a drawer front that matches the cabinet doors, complete with a raised panel, applied wood molding and even more.

The Guts
For true durability, look for cabinets with solid interior mechanisms.  This applies to drawer rail hardware, solid plywood shelving (preferably with full-depth shelving to allow improved storage options) and lazy susan shelving made of solid wood construction.

Options
Now comes the fun part – the options!  If you’re still within budget, consider adding certain comfort options like soft close drawers, under cabinet lighting, crown molding, enhanced columns and glass doors – the options are endless.  But for this, it’s more about looks than durability.  But that’s what makes your dream kitchen.  Have fun!

Now more than ever, your investment in your home needs to be considered prior to any remodeling project.  And with home values leveling, the dollars you invest may also impact your finances as a whole.  But does that mean you shouldn’t remodel?  Not quite.  Sometimes, remodeling investments made during economic declines can often be fantastic opportunities as well.  Just as a recession softens price points and increases unemployment, these same factors can deliver excellent value in terms of lumber, drywall, doors, windows and cabinetry pricing.  Best of all, most contractors will even offer special discounts on normal retail pricing to keep their crews working.  Sometimes these discounts can range from 3% to 7%, thus making your return on value even more attractive.

So what should you expect from your remodeling project?  As a rule of thumb, a 60% return on investment is considered to be worthwhile.  Unquestioningly, any remodel will offer the homeowner certain comfort and updates that he or she will appreciate, but if you plan on selling your home within 10-15 years, you might also want to keep remodeling costs above the 60% threshold.

So what remodeling projects return the best investment?  Clearly, in this case, money spent on remodeling a kitchen brings the best increase in value.  Often regarded as the core of the home, a kitchen remodel featuring new cabinets, countertops and appliances typically ranks in the top five of all home remodeling options.  Beyond that, remodeling projects focused on window, door, siding or insulation addition or replacement will always deliver a solid 60% return on investment – and often that’s before any utility savings or potential tax breaks!  Following closely behind would be additional bathrooms, bedrooms or offices – anything that improves the comparatives of your home to others in your neighborhood.  Still, any remodeling project with a 60% or more return on investment, even if it is a deck or a bedroom update, can be attractive.  For this reason, focus more on costs and value than on the type of project you chose.

Another key to remodeling is to think creatively and not necessarily big.  Kitchen remodeling projects up to $20,000 offer the best return on value, decreasing by up to 6% as the project grows to upwards of $60,000.  So by focusing only on the countertop, appliance and flooring, you may have your best investment.  Still, is a $3,600 increase in your return on investment 10-15 years out at sale worth the comfort offered by a completely redesigned kitchen now?

To get the best value, know what you want.  Often by simply staying on budget and not adding on items throughout the project, you’ll experience the perfect blend of comfort and value.  Find a contractor that offers itemized pricing and encourages your participation with the selection of materials, even offering you credit when you beat the budget.  Lastly, know both the retail cost of your improvement as well as your potential return on value by visiting sites such as www.costvsvalue.com, an independent site maintained by Remodeling Magazine and the National Board of Realtors offering geographic and current data.  That way, you not only know what to expect, but also know where to start.

Keith Desserich is the President of RestorAid Remodeling based in Cincinnati, Ohio.  A 12-year-old company, RestorAid has consistently been recognized as one of the Top 500 contractors in the country and profiled as a Big 50 Remodeler by Remodeling Magazine in 2010.  He and his company can be reached at 1-877-378-6724 and www.restoraid.com.

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For the experienced do-it-yourselfer to the seasoned contractor, balancing a remodeling budget isn’t the result of luck.  Instead it starts from the beginning – from the very first magazine clipping to the last cabinet.  Throughout the process, the relationship you form with the contractor and the guidelines you set will ultimately determine whether you get the kitchen of your dreams or a remodel disaster.  But how can you save money and get it all?  Here are some of the top ten ways to make your next kitchen remodel a success:

1. Know Your Contractor – Just like people, kitchen remodeling contractors have personalities and reputations.  Look for a company that not only knows what they are doing, but also one that specializes in communicating with their customers.  Spend the time reviewing references, looking at pictures of previous projects and talking with the design and production teams.  Avoid contractors utilizing only sub-contractors for projects and instead give special weight to those construction companies with in-house crews.  Not only will it hasten the speed of the remodel, but it will avoid the inevitable communication issues that come with a different carpenter showing up at your door each and every morning.  Also look for a contractor that offers itemized estimates based on activities that not only allows you to confirm the scope and avoid later surprises, but also provides you opportunity to verify costs.  A good contractor will not only be confident in his or her product, but will be prepared to justify each and every activity on the jobsite.
2. Know Your Budget – Set a budget and know it.  Too often people looking to remodel a kitchen meet with a contractor and let them set the budget.  This can result in a project that is frequently more expensive than planned and out of line with your expectations.  Expect that a kitchen remodel will typically cost anywhere from $20,000 to $80,000 and determine what you’re willing to spend as a family.  Then as you interview a contractor, set this expectation early.  Contrary to popular belief, giving your contractor a not-to-exceed budget not only makes it easier for you, but also the contractor. 
3. Look for Value – When considering a remodel project, look for values instead of bargains.  While a quick $50 savings on a reduced faucet may fit the budget, it’s only a deal if it lasts.  The worst thing you can do in a remodel project is to do it twice because of a poor selection in both contractors and materials.  So while budget may be king, don’t shy from spending where it matters.
4. Don’t Price Yourself Out of the Neighborhood – A kitchen remodel is an investment in your home.  Treat it as such by taking the time to view other homes in your neighborhood and comparing your plans to the competition.  Make sure you are not under or over remodeling your home by talking to your contractor or a real estate agent.  Then plan accordingly.  Some of the best remodeling projects are those where the budget doesn’t exceed the home’s increase in value.  And while you may not sell the home immediately after the kitchen remodel, the investment you make will do nothing but grow.
5. Go Direct – Most kitchen remodeling projects do not require extensive architectural or design services.  Save the extra 10-15% in costs by utilizing a full-service design-build contractor instead.  They will often include these services free of charge to remodeling clients.  Also look for remodeling companies that offer in-house cabinetry and countertop distributorships.  Not only will they be more familiar with the cabinetry they install, thus improving efficiencies, but they will also combine trades, offering better discounts.
6. Remodel in Phases – In most cases, kitchen remodeling projects can be done in smaller phases over five years.  As part of the planning process with the contractor, separate phases of work that can accommodate budgetary restrictions.  In the first phase you might replace flooring, cabinetry and countertop, utilizing existing appliances – provided they are of common sizes.  In the second phase, replace appliances and lighting.  A final phase may include such items as a tile backsplash or trim.  While the initial phase will still absorb the largest portion of the budget, by adding additional phases, you may defer $5,000 to $15,000 in costs.
7. Do-It-Yourself – While a full kitchen remodel may be beyond your skill set, pick a contractor that is willing to allow you to complete at least a portion of the estimate yourself.  Obvious money-saving trades include painting and demolition.  Just make sure that your savings are clearly delineated in the estimate and you can complete the job in the allocated timeframe.  Doing so will ensure the best savings and a kitchen completed on-time.
8. Shop Around on Materials – Even if you can’t do part of the remodel yourself, ask for a materials budget from the contractor.  Often on items such as appliances, lighting and countertops you may, in fact, be able to strike a better deal than the contractor.  And don’t be afraid to bargain.  In today’s price sensitive economy, material suppliers are often willing to offer special discounts to the homeowner if they purchase multiple items at the same time.  Keep in mind that on larger items, it may still be necessary to pay your remodeling contractor for pickup, delivery and installation, so make sure you know that the actual material budget is before you start shopping. 
9. Mix It Up – Can’t afford granite throughout the kitchen?  You may be in luck.  With kitchen design trends favoring a diversity of colors and materials, consider featuring granite on an island while using laminate or solid surface elsewhere.  You can do the same with cabinets too.  Try using more expensive cabinets where they will be seen and less expensive cabinets in the work area.  Doing so can save you an additional 10-15% in your remodel project.
10. Watch the Clock – Nothing offers as much savings as time.  When planning your remodel, don’t rush.  An hour spent in planning can often save a day in production.  Plan out subcontractors carefully so as to avoid lost time.  Then, once you start work, avoid the temptation to change the plan.  Often doing so will not only delay the project, but might even cost you more than you planned.  Not only will you appreciate having your new kitchen weeks earlier, but the final bill will reflect your efficient planning process.  And don’t overlook restaurant expenses during the renovation.  Ask your contractor to install a temporary sink and range while waiting for countertops.  Although this service may cost around $100, it may just save hundreds more in restaurant bills – which, you’ll appreciate as the project comes to a close.  Lastly, consider the timing of the project.  Jobs over the holidays will often be 10% less expensive than other times during the year as contractors look for work for their crews.  Remodel when everyone else is typically entertaining and not thinking of tearing up a kitchen and not only will you save, but you might even have somewhere else to eat while your kitchen is under construction!

Use these ten tips to remodeling on a budget and you’ll not only have a kitchen faster, but probably for less than you expected.  But then again, that’s the way you planned it – right from the very first magazine.

Utilizing a double cooling system, LGR dehumidifiers are more effective than standard refrigerant or hot-gas bypass dehumidifiers in that they help avoid additional freezing below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.  While this alone translates in to more drying time and less defrosting time and can justify the investment, the LGR dehumidifier can also deliver dehumidified air down to 20% relative humidity, compared with standard refrigerant dehumidifiers that may only deliver 30-40% relative humidity.  This not only allows for you to dry in less than perfect situations (which applies to pretty much every drying experience), but also dry faster and with less energy.  Considering that a large portion of restorative drying in the Midwest is focused on the basement floods, this is especially important as it helps to eliminate frozen coils in these colder environments.  Additionally, it also offers more dehumidification energy for less AMP draw than a conventional refrigerant dehumidifier that has to overcome the effect of ice blockage on its cooling coils.

Additional advantages of LGR dehumidifiers come in the form of a low weight-to-efficiency benefit, improved structural drying, and utilization of conventional household circuitry.  With overall equipment weights of 92 lbs. to 175 lbs. for larger units, LGR dehumidifiers deliver more dehumidification time per pound than other conventional dehumidifiers.  This is not only important to consider when equipping your job, but also when you have to take the equipment up and down several flights of steps in a day.  Improved structural drying is also a benefit of the LGR dehumidifier in that its ability to reduce humidity below 30% Rh allows you to extract water from more dense materials like drywall over time.  And since LGR dehumidifiers don’t extract more than about 15-20% Rh, they don’t have as much problems with over-drying that plagues the more aggressive desiccant dehumidifiers.  This translates into more drying with less monitoring.  Even better, by utilizing standard 110 volt household circuitry, LGR dehumidifiers are more versatile than desiccant dehumidifiers that rely upon distant and limited 220-volt circuitry.

Overall, LGR dehumidifiers offer our industry one of the most flexible and dependable options to date.  With a fundamental balance between convenience, technology and drying options, they are a critical component of any restorative dryer’s toolbox.

On a personal note, for the past 23 years, we’ve relied on standard refrigerant dehumidifiers and were resistant to make the switch because of insurance pricing and overall cost.  Now, after seeing the benefits of LGR dehumidifiers first hand, we are not only pleased with the results, but have realized cost savings from improved drying and the flexibility that LGR dehumidifiers offer.

• Wood
A classic countertop option of the past, wood has most recently been relegated to strictly butcher block status due to appearance and cleanliness concerns.  Despite its absence from kitchen showroom, it has been recently staging a comeback as a warm alternative to today’s industrial kitchens.  Softer than stone or tile countertops, it has always been knife-friendly, provided you can put up with minor scratches and dents, but it has little resistance to heat and must be protected from hot pots.  Although it requires frequent sanding, oiling and sealing, it can be complimented with other type of countertops to offer warmth and versatility.  Typical costs are $50-$200 per square foot.

• Laminate
Laminate countertops not only offer a wide array of colors and designs, but do so to those on a budget.  At $10-$20 a square foot, laminate countertops have been a great choice for generations and continue to be, especially since new technology produces the color through the entire surface of the laminate rather than simply the top layer.  This allows them an increased ability to resist damage and dents.  Still, laminates can not only stain and scratch, but also have the potential to burn and may not be the perfect match for the gourmet kitchen.  But if price is a concern, you will struggle to find a more perfect combination of price and style.

• Stone
A newer entrance onto the widespread market, stone countertops have gained popularity as mining and cutting technology has brought down the price.  At $60-$220 a square foot, it is one of the more expensive options, despite its long lifespan and versatility.  As a general rule, stone countertops are resistant to heat and light scratches, but are tough on knifes and dishware and glass that can break when dropped from even small heights.  Sealants are frequently necessary to protect more porous stones from stains, but expect variations due to normal wear and tear.

• Solid-Surface
Combining price with versatility, solid surface and synthetic quartz countertops are a good match.  At $40-$100 per square foot, they may not be the least expensive, but they are fairly maintenance free.  Solid surface and synthetic quartz countertops offer a wide array of color selections.  Some heat and scratching damage is possible, although it may be removed with sanding as necessary.

• Ceramic Tile
Ceramic and porcelain tiles can be used on countertops as well as floor to create a mixture of colors and patterns. In a quaint kitchen or where cooking will be minimal, tile countertops may be a good choice to offer the most decorating options.  With an uneven surface, though, tile countertops can allow for staining in both unsealed tile and grout that can be frustrating and difficult to keep clean.  Just like stone, it is also hard on knives and dishware and glass, although it is extremely heat resistant.  At $20-$100, it is a specialty option that can also be easily installed by the do-it-yourselfer.

• Concrete
Although still uncommon, concrete has established itself as a dependable countertop surface for its excellent heat and scratch resistance.  At $75-$200 a square foot, concrete can be stained virtually any color and will develop character over time with hairline cracks and gradual color deepening.  Waxing and sealing is critical to prevent staining on the porous concrete.  Additional structure or cabinet structure may be necessary to support the additional weight of a concrete countertop.

• Metal
A choice of professionals and industrial kitchens for decades, metal countertops allow for excellent cleanup and low maintenance.  Lacking in warmth, it may need to be combined with wood cabinets or warm colors to avoid looking too industrial.  At $75-$150 per square foot, it is a good option for food preparing areas, but be prepared for scratches and dents especially on polished surfaces.  It is heat resistant, but is tough on knives and dishware.

The choices are many, so make sure you match the best one to your style and cooking habits.

• Landscape and drainage issues
By far the most common cause of water intrusion is landscape grading and proper drainage.  With the advent of mulch mounds and mold damage, directing water away from buildings has never been more important.  The best landscape solutions allow for water to flow away from the building naturally by using the natural slope of the land rather than various drainage systems.  Although temporarily effective, drainage systems should be employed as a backup mechanism when effective landscape grading is impossible or when the water runoff is uncharacteristically heavy.  As they will become obstructed and fail over time, it is important to periodically check their effectiveness. 

•Wallpaper or other moisture barriers
When considering decorating options, consider the environment.  Although vinyl wallpaper may allow for easy maintenance, it may not be the best option for a basement or a bathroom where leaks and moisture rage a constant battle.  Applying high-gloss paint or using vinyl wallpaper locks in just as much moisture as it keeps out and this locked-in moisture will result in mold damage.  Sometimes simply letting the walls breathe may be the very best option.

• Construction related water damage
Sometimes a moisture problem needs to be traced all the way back to its roots.  Was the home adequately protected from moisture throughout the construction process?  Although complete water protection is impossible during the construction process, did the construction company protect the materials while they sat in the driveway for weeks before being used?  Did they finish the roof before installing the drywall?  All of these are important questions and will determine the health of the home and its inhabitants.

• Drywall installation
Since drywall is the number one victim of mold damage, it is important to address the original installation of the drywall material.  Was the drywall lifted off the floor with a drywall-lifting tool prior to installation?  Provided that this was done, the drywall panel may be up to 1” off the floor, thereby eliminating multiple moisture problems resulting from frequent but small water damages.

• Roof and gutter design
Most exterior water damage problems start at the top.  Ultimately every moisture problem below the roofline, other than landscaping issues, may have been prevented or certainly lessened if the roof design and gutter system did its job.  It is for this reason that one of the first things to identify in exterior water damage is the role of the roof.  Do the slopes of the roof allow for water to run away from the home or do they simply allow water to flow back toward another exterior wall like a waterfall?  Where necessary, was a cricket or saddle roof installed to direct the water away from chimneys or walls?  Are the gutters large enough to handle the amount of water they will receive in a normal rainfall?  Most importantly, are there adequate, dedicated downspouts to handle the water?

• Tile installation
Obviously, the bathroom is a room that needs to be designed with water in mind.  This not only applies to the sink, toilet and the shower, but also the floors and walls.  While it may be acceptable to install a tile kitchen backsplash over drywall or plywood, this may not be acceptable on a bathroom surface that will receive constant soaking.  Check and see if a concrete board, cement base or even a rubber membrane has been installed in these locations to prevent future water damage problems.  This will give the tile a solid base on which to be installed while repelling water much better than plywood or normal drywall.

• Hydrostatic pressure, sump pump and floor drains
This category is a catchall for the various problems encountered in just about every basement.  In some situations, and depending on the current building code, these problems may either be related or be entirely separate.  Hydrostatic pressure is the pressure water exerts on the exterior walls of a basement foundation.  It is typically found where the foundation is below the local water table level.  As concrete is porous, the extent to which this water pressure overwhelms any applied moisture protection will determine the amount of water intrusion into the basement.  Hydrostatic pressure can be amplified by the effect of the ground as it swells and further drives trapped water into the foundation in the case of a severe rainstorm after a drought.  While a sump pump may help to relieve this pressure, an electrical failure or mechanical failure can quickly change the outcome as the water overwhelms the sump pump.  Homes without sump pumps or those with inadequate pumps may find themselves the victims of multiple water damage problems within a day or two of each other.  This further complicates mitigation attempts as it extends the incident time and delays drying.

• Exterior surfaces (brick, EIFS and stucco)
As with all construction materials, the installation is as important as the quality of the materials.  This is no different with brick, EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finishing System) and stucco.  Provided that the materials are installed properly, each surface treatment can work properly for many years and provide a very comfortable and efficient living environment.  Although building codes and manufacturers’ instructions vary, the basic rule is to allow for the release of moisture that accumulates from the temperature differential between the interior of the home and the exterior.  It is for this reason that each exterior surface is designed with moisture venting systems and vapor barriers to protect the living environment.  It is important that not only these surfaces be installed with vents and moisture barriers, but that they are also properly maintained and kept above ground level.

• Moisture barriers and caulking
Although a minor part of the reconstruction process, proper installation of flashing, vapor barriers and caulking can be a critical step to preventing moisture intrusion.  While installation methods vary greatly depending upon the surfaces involved and the joint, the basic premise is to once again drive water away from the house and to make sure that they are periodically inspected and repaired.  When installing vapor barrier treatments to window and door openings, it is not only important to continue the treatment up to the opening, but it is also important to wrap each opening as well.  When installing flashing, particularly in brick, caulking is never an acceptable alternative to an actual mortar cut that places the flashing between the brick rather than just on the surfaces.  When dealing with caulk, the key is to apply it to any open joint (other than vents left open to allow air circulation and moisture release) and to reapply as necessary or on an annual basis.  Sometimes this $20 repair will prevent a $20,000 mitigation project.

• Pressure differentials and exhausting mechanisms
When there is a difference in temperature between an interior and exterior environment, air infiltration will occur.  Air infiltration during a winter season will result in what is called the stack effect.  The stack effect occurs when the warm air within an indoor environment rises and escapes from the upper portion of the home and from the ceiling and attic.  As this warm air is released, cold air is pulled in from the bottom portion of the house to replace it.  That is why sometimes severe energy loss may be an indication of a moisture problem; especially if an adequate moisture barrier at the bottom of the house is not in place.  When this happens, the cold air may also bring in moisture with it.  Although, makeup air systems and highly efficient insulation systems help to equalize this pressure differential, they are no substitute for other moisture prevention measures such as flashing and landscape grading.  Adding to this problem are any bathroom fans and dryer vents that may or may not vent to the outside.  Not only do they create unnecessary humidity when they fail to exhaust outside, but they also compound the pressure differential problem.

Through careful analysis of the above 10 points, an experienced restorer can make not only correct mitigation judgments, but he or she might also be able to provide the customer with crucial guidance on how to avoid them in the future.  With a long-term approach such as this, the experienced restorer will not only be able to grow the business, but also save time and expense.  After all, isn’t that the value that we promise to our customers every day?