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Thinking Outside of the Cabinetry Box

By admin

Thursday, April 26th, 2012

Raised panel. Inset panel. Dovetail drawers. Plywood box. The choices in cabinetry are endless. Hundreds of colors. Dozens of door designs. Several types of wood. Hundreds of combinations – and that’s just for one brand. Can you ever find the right one? And in the fog of brochures, sales pitches and big box stores, what really matters after all?

Navigating the choices in cabinetry is actually pretty easy once you understand the basics. Beyond that, it’s all about color and preference. Below is a listing of common cabinetry characteristics and what to look for to get the kitchen of your dreams:

The Box
The box is where it is at. More than any other feature, the box construction determines not only the durability of the cabinet, but also the price point. The most obvious detail is the wood product used to make the side, rear and bottom of the cabinet. On the lower side of the spectrum you’ll find cabinetry with sidewall construction from particle board. In mid-range to higher quality cabinetry, you’ll find durable and stable plywood in widths from ½” to ¾” thickness. In some cabinets you might even find pure hardwood sidewalls, although in most cases this is less a construction benefit and more of a way to justify a higher price point. Ideally you want a cabinet with ¾” plywood construction for sidewalls and the rear top rail from which it attaches to the wall. In some cases, particle board may be acceptable in cabinets without shelving or drawers, but for the most part, the higher the quality the more plywood construction.

In the box construction, it is also important to consider the side panels. While not all side panels may not show, those that do should mirror the quality that the front of the cabinets do. For this, look for cabinets with real wood side panels or wood veneer. Plastic veneer, or printed paper, will quickly undermine any beauty you hope to create with a new kitchen. In higher quality cabinetry you’ll even have options for flush ends, integral door panels or applied moldings. Often this can be a way to quickly create the illusion of custom built cabinets.

Another detail of box construction is the door reveal. Depending on your brand of cabinetry you may find that the reveal of the stiles (the vertical wood frame of the cabinetry) and the rails (the horizontal wood frame of the cabinetry) can vary from ½” to ¾” inches. And while this may not matter when you consider one lone cabinet, when you put cabinets in a line, these numbers double and soon you see gaps between each of the doors. The higher level the cabinet line, the closer the doors and the more custom they may appear.

The Wood
From low to high, wood can vary from pine to solid hardwoods like cherry and even exotic woods. And while to a large degree this is a choice more subject to design than durability, the one exception is with certain woods like cherry. Darkening over time, not only is it important to consider the current color, but also review older samples to determine the future color of your selection.

The Door
Open any cabinetry brochure and you’ll immediately meet with pages and pages of door designs. This as well is largely a design issue, but there are some distinct characteristics that you’ll find in higher level cabinetry. First, look for all wood doors. Anything less and the door will warp or fall from its hinges. After that you’ll need to consider standard doors (doors that overlay the cabinet frame) or inset doors (ones that are flush with the cabinet frame). Lastly, consider a raised panel or applied wood molding. The higher the quality cabinetry, typically the more intricate the door profile. To enhance both the depth and give your cabinets an aged look, consider glazing or even rustic treatments.

The Drawer
This is the feature of any cabinetry sales pitch – and for good reason. Dovetail drawer construction should be the minimum in any choice cabinetry. This will not only ensure long term use of the drawers but will also bear the brunt of heavy silverware.

Consider doors with five-piece-headers instead of slab fronts. For this, you’ll find a drawer front that matches the cabinet doors, complete with a raised panel, applied wood molding and even more.

The Guts
For true durability, look for cabinets with solid interior mechanisms. This applies to drawer rail hardware, solid plywood shelving (preferably with full-depth shelving to allow improved storage options) and lazy susan shelving made of solid wood construction.

Options
Now comes the fun part – the options! If you’re still within budget, consider adding certain comfort options like soft close drawers, under cabinet lighting, crown molding, enhanced columns and glass doors – the options are endless. But for this, it’s more about looks than durability. But that’s what makes your dream kitchen. Have fun!

Categories : Article

Tags : countertop, granite, kitchen, kitchen design, kitchen remodel, largest remodeler, remodel

Remodeling as an Investment

By admin

Tuesday, April 10th, 2012

Thinking of a gourmet kitchen? How about an upgrade to your bathroom? Possibly a master bedroom addition? As with any remodeling project, be prepared for plenty of hard decisions. Tile or carpeting? Tray or vaulted ceiling? Single or double bowl sink? Each question represents a battle of preferences and costs, but what about the project as a whole? Will those thousands you invest in your next big project actually produce real dollars down the road when you sell your home? Any what should you expect out of your remodeling investment?

Now more than ever, your investment in your home needs to be considered prior to any remodeling project. And with home values leveling, the dollars you invest may also impact your finances as a whole. But does that mean you shouldn’t remodel? Not quite. Sometimes, remodeling investments made during economic declines can often be fantastic opportunities as well. Just as a recession softens price points and increases unemployment, these same factors can deliver excellent value in terms of lumber, drywall, doors, windows and cabinetry pricing. Best of all, most contractors will even offer special discounts on normal retail pricing to keep their crews working. Sometimes these discounts can range from 3% to 7%, thus making your return on value even more attractive.

So what should you expect from your remodeling project? As a rule of thumb, a 60% return on investment is considered to be worthwhile. Unquestioningly, any remodel will offer the homeowner certain comfort and updates that he or she will appreciate, but if you plan on selling your home within 10-15 years, you might also want to keep remodeling costs above the 60% threshold.

So what remodeling projects return the best investment? Clearly, in this case, money spent on remodeling a kitchen brings the best increase in value. Often regarded as the core of the home, a kitchen remodel featuring new cabinets, countertops and appliances typically ranks in the top five of all home remodeling options. Beyond that, remodeling projects focused on window, door, siding or insulation addition or replacement will always deliver a solid 60% return on investment – and often that’s before any utility savings or potential tax breaks! Following closely behind would be additional bathrooms, bedrooms or offices – anything that improves the comparatives of your home to others in your neighborhood. Still, any remodeling project with a 60% or more return on investment, even if it is a deck or a bedroom update, can be attractive. For this reason, focus more on costs and value than on the type of project you chose.

Another key to remodeling is to think creatively and not necessarily big. Kitchen remodeling projects up to $20,000 offer the best return on value, decreasing by up to 6% as the project grows to upwards of $60,000. So by focusing only on the countertop, appliance and flooring, you may have your best investment. Still, is a $3,600 increase in your return on investment 10-15 years out at sale worth the comfort offered by a completely redesigned kitchen now?

To get the best value, know what you want. Often by simply staying on budget and not adding on items throughout the project, you’ll experience the perfect blend of comfort and value. Find a contractor that offers itemized pricing and encourages your participation with the selection of materials, even offering you credit when you beat the budget. Lastly, know both the retail cost of your improvement as well as your potential return on value by visiting sites such as www.costvsvalue.com, an independent site maintained by Remodeling Magazine and the National Board of Realtors offering geographic and current data. That way, you not only know what to expect, but also know where to start.

Keith Desserich is the President of RestorAid Remodeling based in Cincinnati, Ohio. A 12-year-old company, RestorAid has consistently been recognized as one of the Top 500 contractors in the country and profiled as a Big 50 Remodeler by Remodeling Magazine in 2010. He and his company can be reached at 1-877-378-6724 and www.restoraid.com.

Categories : Article

Tags : bath, kitchen, kitchen design, remodeling

10 Ways to Save on Your Next Kitchen Remodeling

By admin

Tuesday, October 18th, 2011

There it is – the kitchen of your dreams. You’ve envisioned it for years now with the help of home shows, television makeover programs and the shiny pages of your local remodeling magazines. You might have even started a scrap book, set aside a budget and picked a timeframe. But how do you make your dreams a reality while keeping the kids’ college fund untouched?

For the experienced do-it-yourselfer to the seasoned contractor, balancing a remodeling budget isn’t the result of luck. Instead it starts from the beginning – from the very first magazine clipping to the last cabinet. Throughout the process, the relationship you form with the contractor and the guidelines you set will ultimately determine whether you get the kitchen of your dreams or a remodel disaster. But how can you save money and get it all? Here are some of the top ten ways to make your next kitchen remodel a success:

Know Your Contractor – Just like people, kitchen remodeling contractors have personalities and reputations. Look for a company that not only knows what they are doing, but also one that specializes in communicating with their customers. Spend the time reviewing references, looking at pictures of previous projects and talking with the design and production teams. Avoid contractors utilizing only sub-contractors for projects and instead give special weight to those construction companies with in-house crews. Not only will it hasten the speed of the remodel, but it will avoid the inevitable communication issues that come with a different carpenter showing up at your door each and every morning. Also look for a contractor that offers itemized estimates based on activities that not only allows you to confirm the scope and avoid later surprises, but also provides you opportunity to verify costs. A good contractor will not only be confident in his or her product, but will be prepared to justify each and every activity on the jobsite.
Know Your Budget – Set a budget and know it. Too often people looking to remodel a kitchen meet with a contractor and let them set the budget. This can result in a project that is frequently more expensive than planned and out of line with your expectations. Expect that a kitchen remodel will typically cost anywhere from $20,000 to $80,000 and determine what you’re willing to spend as a family. Then as you interview a contractor, set this expectation early. Contrary to popular belief, giving your contractor a not-to-exceed budget not only makes it easier for you, but also the contractor.
Look for Value – When considering a remodel project, look for values instead of bargains. While a quick $50 savings on a reduced faucet may fit the budget, it’s only a deal if it lasts. The worst thing you can do in a remodel project is to do it twice because of a poor selection in both contractors and materials. So while budget may be king, don’t shy from spending where it matters.
Don’t Price Yourself Out of the Neighborhood – A kitchen remodel is an investment in your home. Treat it as such by taking the time to view other homes in your neighborhood and comparing your plans to the competition. Make sure you are not under or over remodeling your home by talking to your contractor or a real estate agent. Then plan accordingly. Some of the best remodeling projects are those where the budget doesn’t exceed the home’s increase in value. And while you may not sell the home immediately after the kitchen remodel, the investment you make will do nothing but grow.
Go Direct – Most kitchen remodeling projects do not require extensive architectural or design services. Save the extra 10-15% in costs by utilizing a full-service design-build contractor instead. They will often include these services free of charge to remodeling clients. Also look for remodeling companies that offer in-house cabinetry and countertop distributorships. Not only will they be more familiar with the cabinetry they install, thus improving efficiencies, but they will also combine trades, offering better discounts.
Remodel in Phases – In most cases, kitchen remodeling projects can be done in smaller phases over five years. As part of the planning process with the contractor, separate phases of work that can accommodate budgetary restrictions. In the first phase you might replace flooring, cabinetry and countertop, utilizing existing appliances – provided they are of common sizes. In the second phase, replace appliances and lighting. A final phase may include such items as a tile backsplash or trim. While the initial phase will still absorb the largest portion of the budget, by adding additional phases, you may defer $5,000 to $15,000 in costs.
Do-It-Yourself – While a full kitchen remodel may be beyond your skill set, pick a contractor that is willing to allow you to complete at least a portion of the estimate yourself. Obvious money-saving trades include painting and demolition. Just make sure that your savings are clearly delineated in the estimate and you can complete the job in the allocated timeframe. Doing so will ensure the best savings and a kitchen completed on-time.
Shop Around on Materials – Even if you can’t do part of the remodel yourself, ask for a materials budget from the contractor. Often on items such as appliances, lighting and countertops you may, in fact, be able to strike a better deal than the contractor. And don’t be afraid to bargain. In today’s price sensitive economy, material suppliers are often willing to offer special discounts to the homeowner if they purchase multiple items at the same time. Keep in mind that on larger items, it may still be necessary to pay your remodeling contractor for pickup, delivery and installation, so make sure you know that the actual material budget is before you start shopping.
Mix It Up – Can’t afford granite throughout the kitchen? You may be in luck. With kitchen design trends favoring a diversity of colors and materials, consider featuring granite on an island while using laminate or solid surface elsewhere. You can do the same with cabinets too. Try using more expensive cabinets where they will be seen and less expensive cabinets in the work area. Doing so can save you an additional 10-15% in your remodel project.
Watch the Clock – Nothing offers as much savings as time. When planning your remodel, don’t rush. An hour spent in planning can often save a day in production. Plan out subcontractors carefully so as to avoid lost time. Then, once you start work, avoid the temptation to change the plan. Often doing so will not only delay the project, but might even cost you more than you planned. Not only will you appreciate having your new kitchen weeks earlier, but the final bill will reflect your efficient planning process. And don’t overlook restaurant expenses during the renovation. Ask your contractor to install a temporary sink and range while waiting for countertops. Although this service may cost around $100, it may just save hundreds more in restaurant bills – which, you’ll appreciate as the project comes to a close. Lastly, consider the timing of the project. Jobs over the holidays will often be 10% less expensive than other times during the year as contractors look for work for their crews. Remodel when everyone else is typically entertaining and not thinking of tearing up a kitchen and not only will you save, but you might even have somewhere else to eat while your kitchen is under construction!

Use these ten tips to remodeling on a budget and you’ll not only have a kitchen faster, but probably for less than you expected. But then again, that’s the way you planned it – right from the very first magazine.

Categories : Article

Tags : cabinets, construction, countertop, kitchen, kitchen design, remodel

High Efficiency Water Damage Drying

By admin

Saturday, October 15th, 2011

Anyone who lives in less than tropical parts of the country understands the value of a longer running, more efficient dehumidifier. Although we’d love 80 degrees Fahrenheit and 60% relative humidity for most of the year, the reality is that quite a few restorative dryers live in places like the Midwest and the North where freezing pipes can play just as much of a role in our business as summer thunderstorms. That’s where the Low Grain Refrigerant dehumidifier earns a reputation as the one of the most versatile drying tool in the restoration professional’s toolbox.

Utilizing a double cooling system, LGR dehumidifiers are more effective than standard refrigerant or hot-gas bypass dehumidifiers in that they help avoid additional freezing below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. While this alone translates in to more drying time and less defrosting time and can justify the investment, the LGR dehumidifier can also deliver dehumidified air down to 20% relative humidity, compared with standard refrigerant dehumidifiers that may only deliver 30-40% relative humidity. This not only allows for you to dry in less than perfect situations (which applies to pretty much every drying experience), but also dry faster and with less energy. Considering that a large portion of restorative drying in the Midwest is focused on the basement floods, this is especially important as it helps to eliminate frozen coils in these colder environments. Additionally, it also offers more dehumidification energy for less AMP draw than a conventional refrigerant dehumidifier that has to overcome the effect of ice blockage on its cooling coils.

Additional advantages of LGR dehumidifiers come in the form of a low weight-to-efficiency benefit, improved structural drying, and utilization of conventional household circuitry. With overall equipment weights of 92 lbs. to 175 lbs. for larger units, LGR dehumidifiers deliver more dehumidification time per pound than other conventional dehumidifiers. This is not only important to consider when equipping your job, but also when you have to take the equipment up and down several flights of steps in a day. Improved structural drying is also a benefit of the LGR dehumidifier in that its ability to reduce humidity below 30% Rh allows you to extract water from more dense materials like drywall over time. And since LGR dehumidifiers don’t extract more than about 15-20% Rh, they don’t have as much problems with over-drying that plagues the more aggressive desiccant dehumidifiers. This translates into more drying with less monitoring. Even better, by utilizing standard 110 volt household circuitry, LGR dehumidifiers are more versatile than desiccant dehumidifiers that rely upon distant and limited 220-volt circuitry.

Overall, LGR dehumidifiers offer our industry one of the most flexible and dependable options to date. With a fundamental balance between convenience, technology and drying options, they are a critical component of any restorative dryer’s toolbox.

On a personal note, for the past 23 years, we’ve relied on standard refrigerant dehumidifiers and were resistant to make the switch because of insurance pricing and overall cost. Now, after seeing the benefits of LGR dehumidifiers first hand, we are not only pleased with the results, but have realized cost savings from improved drying and the flexibility that LGR dehumidifiers offer.

Categories : Article

Tags : air mover, dehumidifier, heat drying, LGR, LGR dehumidifier heat drying water damage air mover restoration, mold, water damage

Choosing the Perfect Countertop

By admin

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

Choosing the perfect countertop can be challenge, but your options have never been quite as diverse. From wood to stone to tile, countertops have become as revolutionary and stylish as the kitchens they cover. New developments and old-world charm combine to bring you the best in functionality and design. But determining the perfect countertop depends upon your lifestyle as well as your cooking habits. Below are just a few of the types of countertops available for your next kitchen remodeling project.

• Wood
A classic countertop option of the past, wood has most recently been relegated to strictly butcher block status due to appearance and cleanliness concerns. Despite its absence from kitchen showroom, it has been recently staging a comeback as a warm alternative to today’s industrial kitchens. Softer than stone or tile countertops, it has always been knife-friendly, provided you can put up with minor scratches and dents, but it has little resistance to heat and must be protected from hot pots. Although it requires frequent sanding, oiling and sealing, it can be complimented with other type of countertops to offer warmth and versatility. Typical costs are $50-$200 per square foot.

• Laminate
Laminate countertops not only offer a wide array of colors and designs, but do so to those on a budget. At $10-$20 a square foot, laminate countertops have been a great choice for generations and continue to be, especially since new technology produces the color through the entire surface of the laminate rather than simply the top layer. This allows them an increased ability to resist damage and dents. Still, laminates can not only stain and scratch, but also have the potential to burn and may not be the perfect match for the gourmet kitchen. But if price is a concern, you will struggle to find a more perfect combination of price and style.

• Stone
A newer entrance onto the widespread market, stone countertops have gained popularity as mining and cutting technology has brought down the price. At $60-$220 a square foot, it is one of the more expensive options, despite its long lifespan and versatility. As a general rule, stone countertops are resistant to heat and light scratches, but are tough on knifes and dishware and glass that can break when dropped from even small heights. Sealants are frequently necessary to protect more porous stones from stains, but expect variations due to normal wear and tear.

• Solid-Surface
Combining price with versatility, solid surface and synthetic quartz countertops are a good match. At $40-$100 per square foot, they may not be the least expensive, but they are fairly maintenance free. Solid surface and synthetic quartz countertops offer a wide array of color selections. Some heat and scratching damage is possible, although it may be removed with sanding as necessary.

• Ceramic Tile
Ceramic and porcelain tiles can be used on countertops as well as floor to create a mixture of colors and patterns. In a quaint kitchen or where cooking will be minimal, tile countertops may be a good choice to offer the most decorating options. With an uneven surface, though, tile countertops can allow for staining in both unsealed tile and grout that can be frustrating and difficult to keep clean. Just like stone, it is also hard on knives and dishware and glass, although it is extremely heat resistant. At $20-$100, it is a specialty option that can also be easily installed by the do-it-yourselfer.

• Concrete
Although still uncommon, concrete has established itself as a dependable countertop surface for its excellent heat and scratch resistance. At $75-$200 a square foot, concrete can be stained virtually any color and will develop character over time with hairline cracks and gradual color deepening. Waxing and sealing is critical to prevent staining on the porous concrete. Additional structure or cabinet structure may be necessary to support the additional weight of a concrete countertop.

• Metal
A choice of professionals and industrial kitchens for decades, metal countertops allow for excellent cleanup and low maintenance. Lacking in warmth, it may need to be combined with wood cabinets or warm colors to avoid looking too industrial. At $75-$150 per square foot, it is a good option for food preparing areas, but be prepared for scratches and dents especially on polished surfaces. It is heat resistant, but is tough on knives and dishware.

The choices are many, so make sure you match the best one to your style and cooking habits.

Categories : Article

Tags : bathroom, corian, countertop, formica, granite, kitchen, laminate, quartz, remodel, silestone, sink, solid surface

Ten Simple Steps to Avoid Water Damage

By admin

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

For countless years, we’ve studied, trained and certified ourselves on the types, effects, and steps to mitigating water damage, but do we really understand its causes and its origin? While we may have spent countless dollars and hours on ASCR and IICRC mitigation training, often we overlook the most critical part of our training. The cause of moisture mitigation is not only an important step in creating a permanent moisture-free environment, but also a critical step in addressing the problem in the first place. After all, how effective can mitigation efforts be without determining the source, extent, frequency and duration of the water damage? Sometimes even these answers can be more important in the long run than determining the type or amount of water damage present – especially with recent trends in mold coverage and remediation options. So where can we start? Whether you have 30 years in the construction business or 3 months, you’ll find that virtually all moisture intrusion problems result from virtually the same 10 reasons:

• Landscape and drainage issues
By far the most common cause of water intrusion is landscape grading and proper drainage. With the advent of mulch mounds and mold damage, directing water away from buildings has never been more important. The best landscape solutions allow for water to flow away from the building naturally by using the natural slope of the land rather than various drainage systems. Although temporarily effective, drainage systems should be employed as a backup mechanism when effective landscape grading is impossible or when the water runoff is uncharacteristically heavy. As they will become obstructed and fail over time, it is important to periodically check their effectiveness.

•Wallpaper or other moisture barriers
When considering decorating options, consider the environment. Although vinyl wallpaper may allow for easy maintenance, it may not be the best option for a basement or a bathroom where leaks and moisture rage a constant battle. Applying high-gloss paint or using vinyl wallpaper locks in just as much moisture as it keeps out and this locked-in moisture will result in mold damage. Sometimes simply letting the walls breathe may be the very best option.

• Construction related water damage
Sometimes a moisture problem needs to be traced all the way back to its roots. Was the home adequately protected from moisture throughout the construction process? Although complete water protection is impossible during the construction process, did the construction company protect the materials while they sat in the driveway for weeks before being used? Did they finish the roof before installing the drywall? All of these are important questions and will determine the health of the home and its inhabitants.

• Drywall installation
Since drywall is the number one victim of mold damage, it is important to address the original installation of the drywall material. Was the drywall lifted off the floor with a drywall-lifting tool prior to installation? Provided that this was done, the drywall panel may be up to 1” off the floor, thereby eliminating multiple moisture problems resulting from frequent but small water damages.

• Roof and gutter design
Most exterior water damage problems start at the top. Ultimately every moisture problem below the roofline, other than landscaping issues, may have been prevented or certainly lessened if the roof design and gutter system did its job. It is for this reason that one of the first things to identify in exterior water damage is the role of the roof. Do the slopes of the roof allow for water to run away from the home or do they simply allow water to flow back toward another exterior wall like a waterfall? Where necessary, was a cricket or saddle roof installed to direct the water away from chimneys or walls? Are the gutters large enough to handle the amount of water they will receive in a normal rainfall? Most importantly, are there adequate, dedicated downspouts to handle the water?

• Tile installation
Obviously, the bathroom is a room that needs to be designed with water in mind. This not only applies to the sink, toilet and the shower, but also the floors and walls. While it may be acceptable to install a tile kitchen backsplash over drywall or plywood, this may not be acceptable on a bathroom surface that will receive constant soaking. Check and see if a concrete board, cement base or even a rubber membrane has been installed in these locations to prevent future water damage problems. This will give the tile a solid base on which to be installed while repelling water much better than plywood or normal drywall.

• Hydrostatic pressure, sump pump and floor drains
This category is a catchall for the various problems encountered in just about every basement. In some situations, and depending on the current building code, these problems may either be related or be entirely separate. Hydrostatic pressure is the pressure water exerts on the exterior walls of a basement foundation. It is typically found where the foundation is below the local water table level. As concrete is porous, the extent to which this water pressure overwhelms any applied moisture protection will determine the amount of water intrusion into the basement. Hydrostatic pressure can be amplified by the effect of the ground as it swells and further drives trapped water into the foundation in the case of a severe rainstorm after a drought. While a sump pump may help to relieve this pressure, an electrical failure or mechanical failure can quickly change the outcome as the water overwhelms the sump pump. Homes without sump pumps or those with inadequate pumps may find themselves the victims of multiple water damage problems within a day or two of each other. This further complicates mitigation attempts as it extends the incident time and delays drying.

• Exterior surfaces (brick, EIFS and stucco)
As with all construction materials, the installation is as important as the quality of the materials. This is no different with brick, EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finishing System) and stucco. Provided that the materials are installed properly, each surface treatment can work properly for many years and provide a very comfortable and efficient living environment. Although building codes and manufacturers’ instructions vary, the basic rule is to allow for the release of moisture that accumulates from the temperature differential between the interior of the home and the exterior. It is for this reason that each exterior surface is designed with moisture venting systems and vapor barriers to protect the living environment. It is important that not only these surfaces be installed with vents and moisture barriers, but that they are also properly maintained and kept above ground level.

• Moisture barriers and caulking
Although a minor part of the reconstruction process, proper installation of flashing, vapor barriers and caulking can be a critical step to preventing moisture intrusion. While installation methods vary greatly depending upon the surfaces involved and the joint, the basic premise is to once again drive water away from the house and to make sure that they are periodically inspected and repaired. When installing vapor barrier treatments to window and door openings, it is not only important to continue the treatment up to the opening, but it is also important to wrap each opening as well. When installing flashing, particularly in brick, caulking is never an acceptable alternative to an actual mortar cut that places the flashing between the brick rather than just on the surfaces. When dealing with caulk, the key is to apply it to any open joint (other than vents left open to allow air circulation and moisture release) and to reapply as necessary or on an annual basis. Sometimes this $20 repair will prevent a $20,000 mitigation project.

• Pressure differentials and exhausting mechanisms
When there is a difference in temperature between an interior and exterior environment, air infiltration will occur. Air infiltration during a winter season will result in what is called the stack effect. The stack effect occurs when the warm air within an indoor environment rises and escapes from the upper portion of the home and from the ceiling and attic. As this warm air is released, cold air is pulled in from the bottom portion of the house to replace it. That is why sometimes severe energy loss may be an indication of a moisture problem; especially if an adequate moisture barrier at the bottom of the house is not in place. When this happens, the cold air may also bring in moisture with it. Although, makeup air systems and highly efficient insulation systems help to equalize this pressure differential, they are no substitute for other moisture prevention measures such as flashing and landscape grading. Adding to this problem are any bathroom fans and dryer vents that may or may not vent to the outside. Not only do they create unnecessary humidity when they fail to exhaust outside, but they also compound the pressure differential problem.

Through careful analysis of the above 10 points, an experienced restorer can make not only correct mitigation judgments, but he or she might also be able to provide the customer with crucial guidance on how to avoid them in the future. With a long-term approach such as this, the experienced restorer will not only be able to grow the business, but also save time and expense. After all, isn’t that the value that we promise to our customers every day?

Categories : Article

Tags : flood, insurance, mitigation, roof leak, water damage

Avoiding Mold Cross-Contamination

By admin

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

You’ve been there before. You’ve just finished (or thought you’ve finished) a complex mold remediation project only to find that the testing results showed the presence of a previously undetected microbe. Worst yet, it’s a microorganism that could be toxic to your customer and will most certainly jeopardize your clearance. What do you do now? The following items are some additional steps that can be taken to help prevent and/or remedy the problem:

• Benchmark
Pre-tests, although costly, can be a critical benchmark in establishing the amount of cross contamination already present before you arrive. Whether it was because of previous remediation attempts, the movement of air, or even the manipulation of contents before you even arrived on the scene, chances are some mold spores have already migrated to other rooms. What a pre-test can tell you is where you’re starting from, and even more importantly, what you have to achieve in order to have a successful remediation.

• Seek advice
As a professional remediation contractor, the most important thing you can do is to seek consultation with an independent testing company. Although an independent pre-test may be optional, an independent post-test is critical – not only for the customer but also for you. After all, not only will they lend credibility to your clearance, but they will also help recommend ways of explaining and overcoming any negative test results. In a cross-contamination situation, they can often be your best ally and primary source of advice. It for this reason alone that you should not only look to work with testing companies that uphold your level of standards, but also consistently resist the opportunity to accept referral fees or “kick-backs”. This will ensure that they have enough integrity leftover to lend to your jobs.

• Start over
Yes, it can be as simple as that. Sometimes the reason that we don’t obtain clearance is because we didn’t do our job right. Provided that the problem now doesn’t extend outside of the original area remediated, you may still have the opportunity to fix the problem before it gets out of hand. Take a moment and review the scene. Was everything that was supposed to be removed actually removed? Was everything cleaned properly? If so, is there a possibility that the wrong items were removed and the affected items still remain? Were all the waste bags cleaned prior to removal? Take care to not only look at what you can see, but also at what you can’t. Have you checked the ceiling tiles? Did you look under the counter? How about in the air ducts? Then, after taking all these steps, regardless of any conclusions made, clean the entire site a second and third time. Better yet, have a second remediation team clean the second time. This will ensure a fresh outlook and a rested eye towards detail.

• Restrict Access
While you may be aware of your crew’s activities on the project, you can’t always predict the actions of the customer or any consultants. Take care to restrict containment access to only those people with the necessary credentials, safety training, and a legitimate need to view the project. For jobs where the containment will be left unattended in the evenings, invest in a lock and clearly mark all exits and entries with signs indicating the restricted access. Not only will this ensure a tight control of the project, but it will also ensure more efficient results.

• Look around
Sometimes a mold problem is not only an indication of a water problem, but also a sign of a larger maintenance issues. Examine whether the mold problem is more of a symptom of the general condition of the premises or workmanship and go from there. If you have a roof problem, you might also want to take a look at the siding and windows as these trades might have been performed by the same sub-contractor. Keep in mind that if one area exhibits poor workmanship, it might be chronic in other trades. If it is a maintenance issue, the range of problems might be even larger. In this case, look for just about every symptom possible. Keep in mind that sometimes the best way to find additional problems is to ask the customer. Make sure to ask about previous water damage problems regardless of their relevance.

• Check your equipment
Although painfully simple, simply checking your equipment may expose the solution to the problem. Was the HEPA filter cleaned or replaced prior to moving it to the next job? Was every tool disinfected? How about the cleanliness of that camera or the moisture sensor you just brought from the last job? Or even the cleanliness of the testing company’s own testing tools and sensors? Are the filters used on the job in good condition and free of any tears or splits? Are you using the correct Personal Protection Equipment – gloves, PPE suits, full-face masks, and boots? Keep in mind that not only does your preparedness and condition of the equipment demonstrate your abilities, but it also saves you from costly mistakes. Take a moment before each job to have a supervisor examine all equipment and general cleanliness prior to the job to ensure constant success. You will be pleased with the results. Who knows, it may even save you from step 1.

• Do the air math
According to virtually all IAQ resources, 4 changes of air per hour are a must for every remediation process. Still, without much work, many remediators commonly exceed 4 changes per hour and typically work in the range of 6-10. While this, by itself, is not a problem, it becomes a problem when you don’t understand where the make-up air is coming from.

In order to better understand this process, it is important to first understand how CFM’s (cubic feet per minute) are calculated. When deciding the amount of equipment necessary, consider the size of the containment. If the containment is 10 feet by 20 feet and 8 feet tall, you can calculate that the cubic feet of this containment is 1600 (10x20x8). With this in mind, you know that in order to have a minimum of 4 changes of air an hour, you need to move 6400 cubic feet of air an hour (1600×4). You can now look at the rating of various negative air machines and make some decisions. If you’re contemplating using a 2000 CFM machine, you know that this machine can circulate up to 120,000 cubic feet of air an hour (2000x60min in an hour). Now, of course a 2000 CFM machine will not actually produce 2000 CFM’s with the proper filters installed, it will probably only deliver 1800 CFM’s. (To confirm the actual CFMs, install a clean filter and check the CFM gauge on the side of the machine.) That’s why in reality; a 2000 CFM machine will probably circulate 108,000 cubic feet of air an hour (1800x 60 minutes). That means that this one machine alone will circulate the entire cubic feet of air within in your containment approximately 67 times an hour (108,000/1600). Obviously, this should be more than enough to conduct remediation activities, but is it too much?

Chances are, it may be way too much. That is, of course, if you do not make the proper accommodations to supply make-up air as well. Just as containment can be compromised by insufficient exhausting, it can also be compromised by inadequate make-up air. Keep in mind that the goal in remediation air management is to obtain 4 changes per hour while keeping a gentle negative pressure in the containment. Certainly 108,000 CFM of exhausting power is more than a gentle negative pressure. At that rate, the containment would collapse on itself and expose the surrounding environment to cross contamination. And even if it doesn’t collapse, any air sampling would be more representative of the outside environment than the containment air.

Simple ways to allow for make-up air to control this problem would be to duct from the outside with the aid of some basic filters covering the supply air ducts (keep in mind that we don’t want to add any more spores than we already have). More complex methods may involve using HEPA exhausting machines in a reverse manner. This provides superior results, as long as the machines are spotlessly clean and have brand new filters. Keep in mind, however, that when you opt for this method, you still need to make sure that negative pressure is maintained. Manometers are wonderful tools for monitoring these pressures and are the mark of a professional remediator.

• Know your molds
Nothing is more important than knowledge. If you want to better understand your options, it is important to understand the mold you are dealing with on each job. Just because an independent testing company claims to know everything about testing doesn’t always mean that they understand microbiology. Make sure that you not only read and refer the reports you receive, but that you also analyze them. Keep in mind, however, that it is not your position to influence the testing company’s conclusions – after all, it is independent for a reason. What you should know is when an additional testing company should be consulted for a third opinion. Ultimately this decision should be the customer’s decision, but as remediation costs increase on each attempt it will become increasingly difficult to ignore this option.

Secondly, carefully read the report. Make sure that it conclusively demonstrates that remediation attempts have met their objective and illustrates it in quantitative results. A good testing report will not only express conclusions, but will also back it up with visual inspection data, moisture readings, as well as spore sampling data. Look for spore sampling data that has adequate control samples from the outside and even a blank slide if your testing company is particularly precise. Know how to read the report and you will know how to exceed their expectations.

Cross contamination problems are certainly not common, but they are normally avoidable with a little bit of attention to detail and preparation. And while this preparation is time consuming, it is certainly less expensive than doing the job twice.

Categories : Article

Tags : HEPA, IAQ, mold, remediation, water damage

Dry Ice Blasting: The New Mold Remediation Tool

By admin

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

Dry ice blasting is nothing new. Discovered in the 1970’s and perfected in the late 1980’s, it has been used to remove grease, paint, rust and even clean tire rubber-molds. Now it’s being introduced to a whole new market and application: mold remediation. In this application, it not only proves itself practical but also a necessity in certain types of remediation activities.

Dry ice, or CO2, blasting combines the best of both worlds by effectively mixing chemical action with brute force. Similar to sand or even soda blasting, CO2 blasting delivers an aggressive force to dislodge contaminants on contact. And, although, the material used in CO2 blasting is softer than conventional blasting material, it is still a good match for wood and metal material. Still, what CO2 blasting lacks in force, it more than compensates in chemical energy. In pellet form, CO2 will hold a temperature of –79 degrees Celsius (less than negative 110 degrees Fahrenheit) that will spontaneously cool the impact area allowing contaminants to contract and dislodge. Then, upon impact, the pellet will convert from a solid to a gas, leaving nothing but the removed contamination as residue. This phase conversion, or sublimation, not only helps to dislodge any contaminants, but also expands in size at such a rate that it dislodges any remaining material. This conversion results in a volume increase of nearly 700 times the original size of the CO2 pellet – enough to lend additional impact energy.

Clearly, CO2 blasting offers specific benefits other than just acting as an aggressive remediation tool. Just like any other media blasting process, it can often reach hard to remediate areas such as those in an attic on the underside of roof sheathing riddled with nails. Previously, it would have been less expensive and more effective to replace the roof and the sheathing than to hand sand each square inch of the sheathing. Now, CO2 blasting makes this job simple. Even better, unlike soda or sand blasting, CO2 blasting will leave no residue other than the spores and contaminants being removed.

CO2 blasting can be performed with the use of commercially available equipment precisely designed for this purpose. Due to temperature and pellet size differences, standard media blasting units will not work. Common prices for CO2 blasting equipment range from $15,000 to $80,000, excluding an air compressor, depending on the type and size of the unit desired. Other than size, CO2 blasting equipment is available in two basic formats: direct feed or siphon feed. Siphon feed units supply ice pellets and air to the wand via two separate hoses. Once at the wand tip, the unit then uses the air to pull pellets from the other hose and mixes them just prior to release. The result is a lower priced unit that while still effective, is limited in power and spray head options. A direct feed unit, on the other hand, mixes CO2 and air at the equipment base to provide a consistent, more powerful result. Often these units will allow for wider spray heads and the ability to vary CO2 output, creating a more powerful or more detailed cleaning.

Beyond basic CO2 blasting machinery, additional equipment and supplies will be required. Most CO2 blasting machines require an air compressor capable of 80-100 psi and 120-250 cfm. While you may be able to get 80-100 psi from a basic handheld compressor, you will need a large, commercial-grade, tow-behind air compressor to deliver the amount of cfm (cubic feet per minute) of air volume required. Additionally, expect to use approximately 40-60 pounds of dry ice per hour during blasting operations. For this you will need to contact a local CO2 supplier and request either a pellet or shaved version of dry ice. Most people prefer the pellet form to the shaved form, but it is not as readily available. Plan several days in advance, as this may need to be shipped from another city for use. Also consider that not only will you have to calculate the amount of ice you plan to use, but also how much of that ice will sublimate (otherwise known as evaporation) prior to use. Expect to lose an additional 60-100 lbs. a day from this alone. That means that you will frequently order more than 400 lbs. of CO2 pellets at a time. It also means that CO2 blasting must be planned well in advance and jobs should be grouped to avoid additional costs.

Safety is another concern that must be taken into account when conducting CO2 blasting. Full-face respirators (for eye protection and respiratory protection), ear muffs (for noise protection), PPE suits, and leather gloves as well as nitrile gloves (for cold and contamination protection) are a must when working with CO2 blasting. Keep in mind that as CO2 is –79 degrees Celsius, it will burn your skin and should not be used in any manner that may cause harm. Although this may be common sense, never fail to discuss this risk with people performing this work and make available MSDS material for their review. Static charges may also be a consideration in CO2 blasting, or, for that matter, any blasting process. As the CO2 pellets pass through the wand, static electricity can build and then release when the technician completes the circuit by touching a metal object. By taking actions to ground the wand or your technician, you might be able to avoid this problem. Additional safety measures, such as oxygen level monitoring, are also important. When working in containment, it is also crucial to have vibrating O2 sensors to notify technicians when the oxygen level drops below acceptable levels. Chose only vibrating sensors that attach to an armband, as you will be unable to hear any audible alarms during blasting.

Although oxygen level is a common concern for most people contemplating CO2 blasting, with frequent air changes, it may never become a problem. Just make sure that you not only consider enough air exchanges for remediation activities, but also for CO2 blasting. A digital manometer is not an option in CO2 blasting, it is a requirement. Check it often and make sure that one person’s sole responsibility is to ensure containment throughout the job and verify with the manometer. Keep in mind that CO2 blasting requires even more than the standard 4 changes per hour. Not only will the CO2 expand at a rate nearly 700 times the original size, but you will also be forcing nearly 120-150 cfm’s of air from the air compressor into the containment. Now, of course, you won’t be constantly blasting for an entire hour, but if you did, you’d have an additional 7200 to 9000 cubic feet of air (120 – 150 cfm * 60 minutes) to consider in your containment planning calculations. That means that you would need an additional 4 to 5 2000 CFM HEPA machines just to create enough negative pressure to counteract this problem. Although this isn’t exact, it’s a good estimate to start with and it frequently will be enough to cover any additional air pressure that the CO2 sublimination creates. Just make sure that you not only protect containment by having enough negative air machines, but you also still provide enough HEPA supplied air from the outside as well. I typically look for about a 1:2 ratio of HEPA supplied air machines to HEPA negative air machines. In addition, you might also want several HEPA air scrubbers to help pick up any debris that is released in the process of blasting before it settles somewhere else. Position these air scrubbers in proximity to the blasting equipment for the best effect. Total, CO2 blasting will require far more HEPA filtration equipment and monitoring equipment than any remediation project you may have been involved with thus far. Very rarely will you use less than 6 HEPA filtering machines and 1 monometer on any CO2 blasting project. Plan accordingly.

Just as dry ice has definite applications, it also has significant limitations. As you may have already concluded, CO2 blasting is not for small or discrete projects. The setup and dismantling time alone makes it a large loss remediation tool. As a matter of fact, unless you do several hundreds of thousands of dollars a year in remediation services, it may not even be worthwhile investment. CO2 blasting is also not a tool to be used on every fire, vandalism, or even microbial claim. Not only is the setup time consuming, but the cost may be high. Even after purchasing the equipment, CO2 material costs can be quite high, depending on shipping and availability. And even if these costs are acceptable, you may have to wait 3-7 days for material to arrive. CO2 blasting is also typically less aggressive than soda or sand blasting resulting in less than satisfactory results if the damage is severe. Always offer a test to your customer prior to committing to a blasting method. This will not only save money and time, but also your reputation.

CO2 blasting, in addition to having logistical and investment limitations, also has several practical limitations. As with any other type of blasting technique, CO2, blasting is not a cure all. If the extent of the contamination is limited in scope or too serious to risk aerosolizing the contaminants, you may want to consider total removal rather than blasting. If you do decide to use CO2 blasting, always utilize proper containment with additional critical barrier to be used in the event that negative pressure fails. Extra HEPA machines to be used primarily for active scrubbing are always recommended during and after blasting. Additionally, take the extra effort to not only clean as a final step, but also throughout the job. It is not unusual to clean 4-5 times after concluding CO2, blasting operations.

If CO2 blasting is your best option, make sure you educate not only your technicians, but also your customers. Many customers, insurance companies and testing companies alike are unfamiliar with CO2 blasting. Unfortunately, this lack of knowledge can translate into misconceptions quite quickly. Before you know it, your efforts to conduct CO2 blasting can be rejected on the grounds that it is “too expensive”, “too dangerous”, or even “ineffective”. And although this may not be the case, these misconceptions can quickly become obstacles if you haven’t laid the proper knowledge base. Try to educate before the job. Discuss the CO2 blasting option with testing companies before working with them and turn this obstacle into a benefit for your sales growth. Additionally, make sure to review results and a CO2 Material Data Safety Sheet with the customer. Carefully explain how you plan on exhausting the leftover CO2 and point out how it is a naturally occurring chemical in the environment. Above all, don’t rush into the process. Discuss, answer questions and educate – you will be happy with the result.

CO2 blasting is certainly not for everyone and not for every project, but it is definitely a resource worth exploring if you have the volume and the project to work with. When you find that proper application, you will not only be pleased with the effectiveness, but also the time and money it saves.

Categories : Article

Tags : blasting, co2, dry ice, mold, remediation, water damage

Insurance Options for Mold, There’s No Perfect Solution

By admin

Thursday, January 6th, 2011

Mold damage is nothing new. It predates people, homes and the insurance policies designed to protect them. That’s one reason why it is difficult to write policies that effectively exclude all coverage resulting from mold damage. Just as you can’t exclude the smoke damage that accompanies a fire, insurance companies find it increasingly difficult to separate water damage from mold damage. As a result, they are attempting to specify the remediation efforts through testing or cap coverage limits. Although this may prove temporarily successful, in the long term it will be the customer and the court system that will best confirm the wisdom of this approach. Several coverage options that are being attempted are the following:

1. The mold exclusion

This is where the insurance company denies all mold coverage on the basis that mold results from a lack of proper maintenance and is thereby not a catastrophic event. While it may be one of the most popular options, it may be the most problematic. Although some mold claims are undeniably the result of neglect or poor maintenance, there are circumstances where the homeowner may not be aware of the damage and had no opportunity to prevent it.

2. The mold cap

There is nothing new about insurance caps. They’ve been used for water damage, fire damage and just about every other type of insurance claim that occurs. The difference in this case is that the limits are often far less than the actual costs incurred. Ranging from $1,000 to $5,000, these may cover little more than pre- and post testing reports.

3. Maintenance vs. resulting claim

Although a far more realistic option, this option requires the insurance company to constantly determine whether a mold loss was the result of neglect by the customer or whether it was the result of an otherwise covered loss. In the case of neglect, the claim would typically be denied and no claim funds would be paid. If it were determined to be resulting damage, the claim would be covered, but might be subject to a claim cap that is typically the same for water damage. In this option, the insurance company judges each claim separately. While it may be nice to allow for a custom approach, this option also breeds severe liability issues for the insurance company when the wrong judgment is rendered.

4. Total mold coverage, but no repair coverage

Realizing that mold is often the result of improper building design or other neglect that may or may not be the responsibility of the homeowner, several insurance companies are choosing to only cover the mold remediation rather than the repairs necessary to prevent it. And while it has never been the responsibility of the insurance company to cover repairs such as flashing, landscaping grading or other mold creating problems, insurance companies are becoming increasingly strict on the interpretation of their costs. In the case of a vapor barrier issue that results in mold damage, an insurance company with this approach might cover the basic remediation costs such as containment and HEPA machines, but stop short of everything else. This would leave the customer to pay for the replacement of the vapor barrier, removal and replacement of drywall, and replacement of the insulation. Their justification in this situation might be that the customer needed to make the repair anyway and would therefore need to remove the drywall, regardless of whether it was contaminated or not, in order to get to the vapor barrier.

5. Total mold coverage

Although the most expensive of all coverage options for the insurance company, it is also the most customer friendly option. Still, as a requirement, these policies will often require the homeowner to seek the advice of a certified industrial hygienist for testing and use only a qualified remediation contractor with a certified microbial remediation supervisor, an applied microbial remediation technician, or equivalent accredited personnel on staff. Regardless of which option the insurance company chooses, it is important to remember that these coverage options will continue to evolve as mold remediation changes. Additionally, by continuing to foster education and a high level of integrity, mold remediation companies can begin to show insurance companies why remediation efforts and their costs can lead to better business in the long run.

Keith E. Desserich is co-founder and president of RestorAid Restoration, with national headquarters in Cincinnati, Ohio. He has over a decade of experience in the cleaning, restoration and remodeling industry providing a wide range of restoration and consultation services. He holds certification in fire and water damage restoration and is a CMRS. For more information, please visit www.restoraid.com or e-mail him at keith@restoraid.com.

Categories : Article

Tags : insurance, mold